Marcourt,
5 March 1988
Beneath the snow, the village seems to have
preserved intact the signs of its memory. There are no advertisement hoardings,
no businesses and no neo lights. The history of the countryside seems frozen in
motionless time, rather like the madness of the asylum, in which one could
endlessly inscribe the unfolding of past events. Marcourt is an abandoned
relic.
For household goods and everyday purchases, the inhabitants of Marcourt visit
La Roche-en-Ardenne, an interesting medieval town which was rebuilt in 1944.
The ‘Nature and Health’ park, designed for walking, is a made-to-measure green
space, with Hungarian boars and convalescent deer. A placard refers to La
Boverie. There is no sign of the White Cross Inn. In summer, this ill-defined
area becomes a camping site. A handful of white caravans, sunk deep in the
snow, remind one of holiday rituals, of hunting, fishing, swimming, and visits
to the caves.
As I look at the guide-book, I reflect that the abduction of January 1791 did
not happen here, but in the Parc de la Boverie, which is now the part of the
town of Liege, to the south of the island watered by the Meuse. Xhoris is some
dozens of kilometers away, and Stavelot
is further still. Apollinaire spent the summer here on 1899, at the
Hotel du Mal Aime. What was he doing in Théroigne’s
country. Did he know of her existence? Had he read ‘Sisina’?
Olivier came with me to Marcourt, bringing his daughter, little Helene. The Journal des Enfants had asked her to
write an account of her journey. Why Belgium? What relation was there to the
Bicentenary? Did the Revolution happen
at Marcourt? Who was this ‘Tremoigne’? What were women’s rights? Are dotty
people sent to asylums? The answers to the questions proved to be interlocking.
I thought of my mother’s death, of the Union
des femmes francaises, in which she was involved for a period, after the
war. I thought of my aunt too, who had been a suffragette in the very early
days.. I thought of my other aunt, who has emigrated from Romania, and who
spoke several different languages. I thought of Francoise Dolto*, who was not
afraid to die. I had never needed to be ‘feminist’, since all the women who had
featured in my childhood had already been so. Fortunately. The women’s struggle
has ended. The Revolution is over. I sent a postcard to my god-daughter Alice.
I sent another card to my friend Elisabeth Badinter, who had insisted that I
make the journey to Maracourt.
Had Theroigne had been schizophrenic or manic-depressive? The terminology
matters little. Mourning and melancholia have no need of science. I feel I have
invented everything, and that I have pondered over the celebration of a trompe l’oeil** bicentenary and of a
nostalgia centenary. Which have I been
concerned with, Revolution or psychoanalysis? Had I been searching for Freud
behind Pinel, and for Ferenczi after Mesmer? It would be claimed nowadays that
this whole story had simply been a question of ‘neurones’ and of the power of
the media.
The dominant memory at Marcourt was of the horrors of war. In September 1944,
the patriots of the Belgian Resistance had pitched camp above Marcourt with a
view of linking up with the American army, which was stationed at Hotten. At the
crossroads, on the La Roche road, they attacked two enemy machine-gun carriers.
The first was destroyed, but the second managed to escape. The first was
destroyed, but the second managed to escape. For sometime afterwards, the
head of a decapitated soldier was to be
seen in a sunken road, a grim symbol of this final struggle against barbarism.
The German retaliation was terrible. Troops marched into the village and set fire
to thirty-odd houses. Prisoners were burned alive in an old barn. Each year, on
9 September, friends and relatives gathered in a votive chapel, to remember the
massacre.
Theroigne, the patriot of yesteryear, has never been associated with this
celebration.
In Hodister, which is in the mountains, Noelle Mormont lives surrounded by her
memories. She is a lovely old lady, a former teacher who is familiar with Theroigne’s
story. In order to remind the inhabitants of their ancestors, she has written a
chronicle, in which she describes the circumstances and deeds of the two local
celebrities. Before Theroigne, there had been Evrard Mercurian, general of the
Jesuit order. His surname encompassed Marcourt, which was derived from the Latin
Mercurium and Mercury, god of journeys and of communication. It is a curious
repetition: two children of this ‘mercurial’ village- the Jesuit Mercurian and
the Amazon of Mericourt – had won glory by escaping and conquering the world in
search of a new faith.
We took Noelle to visit Marcourt cemetery. I inspected every grave, hooping to
find some inscription, date or portrait which might conjure up the presence of
the Terwagnes. There was nothing, no shadow or shade, not even the slightest
trace of this huge family. Even the dead disappeared.
The presbytery was inhabited by a private person, who rented it from the parish.
Every Sunday, the only curé in the area
did his rounds, celebrating several masses on the same day. Those with a religious
vocation are rare, and the faithful are elderly. Nevertheless, the church was in
good repair, with a baroque choir, pious images and ultra-modern heating. The
main door overlooks some waste ground, flanked by some huts serving as a
tourist information bureau. With Rene Moureau as our guide, we visited the
tawdry corrugated-iron structure in which the sympathetic man struggled to
harvest a few fragments of local culture. He proudly showed us Anne-Josephe’s
baptismal certificate, which was kept under glass. Suddenly, Helene asked where
‘Tremoigne’ had lived, where her house and that of her parents had been. It had
been in that very spot, opposite the church, where the tourist information
bureau now was.
The house had changed hands several times in the course if the nineteenth century
until finally, in 1873, at the request of Houba, the curé , it had been demolished.
He felt that it was attracting too many visitors. By effacing the last living
race of the amazon, the priest sought to banish all record of the Revolution from
human memory. He believed that archives were silent, forgot that a church
document could restore Theroigne’s legal existence, in the very place where it
has been destroyed. Did he perhaps dream at night of Michelet’s imprecations? Did he fear the spread of a new contagion,
coming from France, from Liege or rom the Brabant? Did he perhaps see the great
Sabbath of the Bastille danced beneath his windows? History does not tell us.
But, at Marcourt, aside from a baptismal certificate, Theroigne is nowhere to
be found.
* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fran%C3%A7oise_Dolto
** French for 'deceive the eye' is an artistic term for the highly realistic optical illusion of three-dimensional space and objects on a two-dimensional surface.
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