[After that Saturday afternoon at the theater] I was happily to find, at all events, that I had not, on that occasion, done with the Bowery, or with its neighborhood – as how could one not rejoice to return to an air which such infinite suggestion might flower? The season had advanced, though the summer night was no more than genial, and the question, for this second visit, was of a ‘look-in,’ with two or three friends, at three or four of the most ‘characteristic’ evening resorts (for reflection and conversation) of the dwellers of the East side.
It was definitely not, the question, of any gaping view of the policed underworld –unanimously pronounced an imposture, in general, at the best, and essentially less interesting than an exhibition of public manners.
I found on the spot, in harmony with this preference, that nothing better could have been desired, in the way of a presentable picture, subject always to the swinging lantern-light of the individual imagination, than the first (as I think it was, for the roaming hour) of our penetrated ‘haunts’ – a large semi-subterranean establishment, a beer-cellar rich in the sporting note, adorned with images of strong men and lovely women, prize-fighters and ballerines, and finding space in its deep bosom for a billiard-room and a bowling alley, all sociably squeezed together; finding space, above all for a collection of extraordinarily equivocal types of consumers: an intensity of equivocation indeed planted, just as if to await direct and convenient study, in the most typical face of the collection, a face which happened, by good fortune, to be that of the most officious presence.
When the element of the equivocal in personal character and history takes on, in New York, an addition from all the rest of the swarming ambiguity and fugacity of race and tongue, the result becomes, for the picture seeker, indescribably, luridly strong. There always comes up, at a view of the ‘low’ physiognomy shown in conditions that denote a measure of impunity and ease, the question –than which few, I think, are more interesting to the psychologist –of the forms of ability consistent with lowness; the question of the quality of intellect, the subtlety of character, the mastery of the art of life, with which the extremity of baseness may yet be associated. That question held me, I confess, so under its spell during those almost first steps of our ingenious enquete, that I would gladly have prolonged, just there, the opportunity to sound it.
The fascination was of course in the perfection of the baseness, and the puzzle in the fact that it could be subject, without fatally muddling, without tearing and rending them, to those arts of life, those quantities of conformity, the numerous involved accommodations and patience, that are not in the repertory of the wolf and the snake. Extraordinary, we say to ourselves on such occasions, the amount of formal tribute that civilization is after all able to gouge out of apparently hopeless stuff; extraordinary that it can make a presentable sheath for such fangs and claws. The mystery is in the how of the process, in the wonderful little wavering borderland between nature and art, the place of the crooked seam where, if psychology had the adequate lens, the white stitches would show.
All this played through one’s thought, to the infinite extension of the sufficiently close and thoroughly banal beer-cellar. There happened to be reasons, not to be shaded over, why one of my companions should cause a particular chord of recognition to vibrate, and the very convergence of hushed looks, in the so ‘loud’ general medium, seemed to lay bare, from table to table, the secret common countenance (common to that place) put off its guard by curiosity, almost by amiability. The secret was doubtless in many cases but the poor familiar human secret of the vulgar mind, of the soul unfurnished, so to speak, in respect to delicacy, probity, pity, with a social decoration of the mere blank walls of instinct; but it was the unforgettable little personality that I have referred to as the presiding spirit, it was the spokesman of our welcome, the master of the scene himself, who struck me as presenting my question in its finest form.
To conduct a successful establishment, to be a spokesman, an administrator, an employer of labor and converser on subjects, let alone a citizen and tax-payer, was to have an existence abounding in relations and to be subject to the law that a relation, however imperfectly human or social, is at worst a matter that can only be described as delicate. Well, in the presence of the abysmal obliquity of such a face, of the abysmal absence of traceability or coherency in such antecedents, where did the different delicacies involved come it at all?- how did intercourse emerge at all, and, much more, emerge so brilliantly, as it were, from its dangers? The answer had to be, for the moment, no doubt, that if there be such a state as that of misrepresenting your value and use, there is also the rare condition of being so sunk beneath the level of appearance as not to be able to represent them at all. Appearance, in you, has not only no notes, no language, no authority, but is literally condemned to operate as the treacherous sum of your poverties.
The jump was straight, after this, to a medium so different that I seem to see, as one drawback of evoking it again, however briefly, the circumstance that it stated the speculative hare for an even longer and straighter run.
This irrepressible animal covered here, however, a much goodlier country, covered it in the interest of happy generalization – the bold truth that even when apparently done to death by that property of the American air which reduces so many aspects to a common denominator, certain finer shades of saliency and consistency do often, by means know to themselves, recover their rights. They are like swimmers who have had to plunge, to come round and under water, but who pop out a panting head and shine for a moment in the sun.
My image is perhaps extravagant, for the question is only of the kept recollection of a café pure and simple, particularly simple in fact, inasmuch as it dispensed none but ‘soft’ drinks and presented itself thus in the light, the quiet, tempered, intensely individual light, of a beerhouse innocent of beer. I have indeed no other excuse for calling it a beerhouse than the fact that it offered to every sense such a deep Germanic peace as abides, for the most part (though not always even then), where the deep-lidded tankard balances with the scarce shallower bowl of the meditative pipe.
This modest asylum had its tone, which I found myself, after a few minutes, ready to take for exquisite, if on no other ground than its almost touching suggestion of discriminations made and preserved in the face of no small difficulty. That is what I meant just now by my tribute to the occasional patience of unquenched individualism – the practical subtlety of the spirit unashamed of its preference for the minor key, clinging, through thick and thin, to its conception of decency and dignity, and finding means to make good even to the exact true shade. These are the real triumphs of art- the discriminations in favor of taste produced not by the gilded and guarded ‘private room,’ but by making publicity itself delicate, making your barrier against vulgarity consist but in a few tables and chairs, a few coffee-cups and boxes of dominoes.
Money in quantities can always create a tone, but it has been created here by mere un-buyable instinct. The charm of the place in short was that its note of the exclusive had been arrived at with such a beautifully fine economy. I try, in memory, and for the value of the lesson, to analyze, as it were, the elements, and seem to recall as the most obvious the contemplative stillness in which the faint click of the moved domino could be heard, and into which the placid attention of the quiet, honest men who were thus testifying for the exquisite could be read. The exquisite, yes, was the triumphs, those of the course and common, making it but stick the faster, like a well-inserted wedge. And fully to catch this was to catch by the same stroke the main ground of effect, to see that it came most of all from the felicity of suppression and omission.
There was so visibly too much every where else of everything vulgar, that there reigned here, for the difference, the learned lesson that there could scarce be in such an air of infection little enough, in quantity and mass, of anything. The felicity had its climax in the type, or rather the individual character, of our host, who, officiating alone, had apparently suppressed all aids to service and succeeded, as by an inspiration of genius, in omitting, for all his years, to learn the current American. He spoke but a dozen words of it, and that was doubtless how he best kept the key of the old Germanic peace – of the friendly stillness in which, while the East side roared, a new metaphysic might have been thought out or the scheme of a new war intellectualized. . .
After this there were other places, mostly higher in
scale, and but a couple of which my memory recovers; our adventure was so far
from closing that, late though the hour, it presently opened into a vast and
complicated picture which I find myself thinking of, after an interval, as the
splendid crown of the evening. Here we were still on the East side, but we had
moved up, by stages artfully inspired, into the higher walks, into a pavilion of
light and sound and savory science that struck one as vaguely vast, as possibly gardened about, and that, blazing
into the stillness of the small hours, dazzled one with the show of its copious
and various activity.
The whole vision was less intimate than elsewhere, but it was a world of custom
quite away from any mere Delmonico tradition of one’s earlier time, and rich,
as one might reckon it, in its own queer marks, marks probably never yet reduced
– inspiring thought! – to literary notation; with which it would seem better to
form a point of departure for fresh exploration than serve as a tail-piece to
the end of a chapter.
Who were all the people, and whence and whither and why, in the good New York
small hours? Where was the place
after all, and what might it, or might it not, truly, represent to the slightly-fatigued
feasters who, in a recess like a private opera box at a bal masque, and still communing with polyglot waiters, looking down
from their gallery at multitudinous supper, a booming orchestra, an elegance of
disposed plants and flowers, a perfect organization and an abyss of mystery?
Was it ‘on’ Third Avenue, on Second, on fabulous un-attempted First? Nothing would
induce me to cut down the romance of it, in remembrance, to a mere address, least
of all to an awful New York one; New York addresses falling so below the grace of
a city where the very restaurants may on occasion, under restless analysis,
flash back the likeness of Venetian places flaring with the old carnival. The
ambiguity is the element in which the whole thing swims for me – so nocturnal,
so bacchanal, so hugely hatted and feathered and flounced, yet apparently so
innocent, almost so patriarchal again, and matching, in its mixture, with
nothing one had elsewhere known. It breathed its simple ‘New York! New York!’
at every impulse of inquiry; so that I can only echo contentedly, with analysis
for once agreeably baffled, ‘Remarkable, unspeakable New York!’
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